(ARA) - Wondering about the best things to feed your lawn? Is that a new blade of grass or a weed? Learn the secrets to creating a lush green lawn with advice from John Deere’s “Mow Master” Bill Klutho.
Q: It’s finally getting warmer, so I can’t wait to pull my lawn mower out of the garage! What should I do to make sure my mower is warmed up for the season? -- Spring Fevered
A: Before the warm weather arrives, read your operator’s manual to learn your mower’s recommended routine maintenance schedule. Most maintenance needs can be handled annually, so now is the perfect time to tune up your mower.
Common maintenance tasks include sharpening your mower blade; replacing the spark plug; clearing fans and intake screens; changing the oil, oil filters and fuel filters; checking safety shields and switches; and replacing the gasoline since old gas can clog the carburetor.
A disregarded or damaged mower can cause harm to your lawn, your equipment and yourself. If you can’t or just don’t want to perform your own maintenance, take your mower in to your local dealer for a tune up or try John Deere Ready to Mow – a mobile service that actually comes to your home to perform mower maintenance.
Q: When we moved into our new house last year, I inherited a yard full of weeds and crab grass. What can I do this year to get rid of them? -- Needs to Weed
A: Now is the time to prevent crab grass before it comes back. Put down a pre-emergence herbicide before the crab grass seeds germinate and sprout. If you wait until you see the weeds, it’s too late. John Deere recommends that you set up an early warning system. When you see the forsythia bushes in your neighborhood in bloom – bright yellow leaves – then spread a pre-emergence herbicide.
Many other common weeds, like dandelions, can be handled with a post-emergence herbicide. Wait until after the weeds sprout and have leaves; then pounce on them with your herbicide. This weed killer is absorbed into the leaves and is circulated down into the root system. You’ll have the best results in the spring when the weeds are still growing.
Q: My walk-behind mower was on its last legs, so this year I finally got my dream mower: a new John Deere LX 280 riding mower. Do I need to mow differently with a tractor vs. a walk-behind? -- Riding in Style
A: How you mow is mostly the same, with one significant difference: slopes. When mowing slopes with a walk-behind mower, it’s best to mow back and forth across a hill. If you trip and fall, the mower is less likely to tumble on top of you. But with a lawn tractor, mow up and down hills for greatest stability. If the hillside is really ominous, get creative and plant a ground cover instead.
As with any mower, read your operator’s manual and pay close attention to all warning labels. When walking backward with a push mower, you should be careful not to run over your own toes. With a riding mower, you have limited visibility and could potentially encounter something without even feeling it; so be extra careful of the space around you. No matter what kind of mower you use, be sure to keep children and pets inside under adult supervision when mowing.
Q: What’s the deal with lime and iron? Does my lawn really need them or not? – Curious Cutter
A: You add crushed limestone or iron to a lawn in order to change its chemistry. Grass prefers slightly acidic soil, so you either add lime to bring the acid level down or add sulfur to increase it. If you live in an area where it rains a lot, you might have to lime every year. If a lawn turns yellow, sometimes the culprit is lack of iron. Check with your neighbors to find out what they add during the summers. The best solution is to have your soil tested through your local agriculture extension office. The analysis you receive will tell you what to do.
Q: Dear Mow Master – I’m a newlywed, and we just bought our first house. Any tips to make my lawn the envy of the neighborhood? -- Married Mower
A: Congratulations! Welcome to the world of marriage, home ownership and lawn care.
To keep your lawn growing as strong as your love, stick to the basics:
• Fertilize your lawn when it starts growing in the spring and in the fall, one month before the lawn goes dormant.
• Follow the John Deere one-third cutting rule, mowing only the top third of the grass each time you mow.
• Most lawns need about an inch of water per week. If you’re unsure of how long to water, put a mark one inch from the bottom of several plastic containers and spread them around the watering zone. Clock the time it takes to reach the one-inch mark and water for that length of time in the future.
Make a life-long commitment to safety too – your spouse (and future kids) will appreciate it.
Q: Help me, Mow Master! My lawn is all soft and spongy. Is something wrong? – Concerned Cutter
A: Sounds like you’ve got thatch. Thatch is mostly dead roots caused by excessive watering or fertilizing. Up to a half inch of thatch can be beneficial, as it helps prevent ground compaction and holds moisture in the soil. However, a thick layer of thatch is detrimental. It acts like a sheet of plastic to hold back water, nutrients and air – all the things roots need to stay healthy. Thatch can also harbor insects and disease. If you already have thatch problems, use a dethatcher or aerate your lawn. To avoid thatch buildup, follow the John Deere one-third rule and mow on the high side. Water your lawn infrequently, but deeply – about an inch a week.
Article courtesy of ARA Content
